For a surprising bounty of high-quality, top-value bottles, look to the Western Mediterranean for new and renewed expressions of Old World character, finesse and exuberance. More specifically, look to northeastern Spain and southern France, where grape growers and winemakers are leading a renaissance of diverse, complex and creative styles of Garnacha (aka Grenache) from Europe, honoring traditional styles and experimenting with new possibilities.
Even drinkers who know Garnacha may envision a red wine with ripe, bold flavors and high alcohol levels—many very fine examples of this exist, some better than ever—but European Garnacha offers much, much more. You’ve resolved to broaden your horizons, so it’s time to dip into lithe, elegant high-altitude reds; white Garnacha that can be crisp or rich; rosés both fresh and funky, some made from the rare gray Grenache clone; beguiling sparklers (it’s a new year, after all); fortified dessert companions; and even nutty, long-aged meditation wines made in traditional oxidative styles.
In 2022, journey toward the Pyrenees from the comfort of your kitchen table, and look for these destinations. The Spanish appellations of DO Calatayud, DO Campo de Borja, DO Cariñena, DO Somontano and DO Terra Alta, as well as France’s Roussillon Geographical Indications, mark the spiritual home of Garnacha/Grenache. What all have in common is a guarantee of quality ensured by the European Union’s Geographical Indications system. When you buy a bottle, you’ll know the wine represents the highest EU standards of safety, traceability, authenticity, labeling, nutritional and health aspects, animal welfare, respect for the environment and sustainability. Every glass evokes the distinctiveness and distinction of its place of origin.
Garnacha from one protected place of origin may be subtly or dramatically different from a neighboring region’s Garnacha, so you’ll have no trouble finding bottles to pair with all the dishes you’re planning to perfect (or just enjoy) in 2022. Queue up a sparkling Garnacha from DO Cariñena, in Spain, for fresh shellfish or a fruit plate. A citrusy, minerally white Garnacha from DO Terra Alta calls for sushi and spring rolls, while a rich, round Garnacha from DO Somontano can handle grilled salmon or roasted chicken. A fresh, zippy rosé from any of these regions is delightful on its own, but sautéed tofu and vegetables entice as well.
Try an aromatic, elegant red from DO Campo de Borja with roasted duck or barbecue, or, for steaks or sweet and sour pork, pour a mineral DO Calatayud or a bold, robust AOP Maury Sec from Roussillon. Finish the meal with a dessert vin doux naturel from AOP Banyuls or AOP Rivesaltes: There are versions to match whatever sweet or savory treat you’ve resolved, but failed, to avoid. All in all, best to have a nice selection of bottles on hand to open whenever your friends and family drop by!
