All European Garnacha/Grenache quality wine made a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) or a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) in the Spanish PDOs of DO Calatayud, DO Campo de Borja, DO Cariñena, DO Somontano and DO Terra Alta, and the French PDOs and PGIs in Roussillon, share a few qualities in the vineyard. The grape, whether a red, white, gray, tintorera or peluda (named for its “hairy” leaves) clone, is particularly sensitive to terroir, favoring hot, dry conditions. It is disease-resistant and needs relatively little water, though dry conditions and poor soils force vines to grow deep roots, extracting nutrients and the essence of terroir-specific minerality. But this sturdiness promotes sustainable grape growing; compared to other grapes, it needs little irrigation or intervention against diseases and pests.

Many European Grenache vines live for decades or longer, and old-vine expressions may originate in parcels of bush vines 40- or even 100-plus years old. Such vines produce low yields of small berries, meaning flavor, color and tannin components are concentrated in each grape. But there are factors that allow for the wonderful diversity of the wines too.

• Climate: Though Garnacha basks in the sun, it can thrive in both Mediterranean or more continental climates in southern Europe. Inland, slopeside areas of the AOP Côtes du Roussillon PDO and the Aragon PDOs of Calatayud, Campo de Borja, Cariñena, Somontano all have more continental profiles, with pronounced temperature variations between day and night, providing wines that preserve acidity and freshness. Strong winds, like the cierzo and garbinada in Spain and the tramontane in France, also moderate temperature, especially in the high elevations. of PDOs like Campo de Borja. PDOs near the sea, like Terra Alta in Spain and Collioure, in Roussillon, lean Mediterranean, lending a bright, ripe fruit core to the wines.
• Soil composition: Since Grenache draws deeply from its roots, the minerals in the European soil may give backbone to the wines, or lend earthy, herbal or ferrous qualities. In Roussillon GIs, some of the most distinctive soils are the black schist and the gray Cambrian schist, which retain heat and help concentrate phenolics in the grapes. Limestone in DO Cariñena and DO Terra Alta translate to chalky or mineral flavors. Still other European PDOs and PGIs grow Garnacha in slate, granite, gneiss, clay, sandstone and pebbles, such DO Calatayud.
• Topography: Roussillon GIs and northeastern Spain are crisscrossed by mountain ranges and river valleys. Some vineyards have a sea view. In high-elevation sites like those of DO Calatayud, which can reach 3,600 feet, the growing season may stretch long, resulting in dense, powerful reds. Or winemakers might prefer to harvest a bit earlier at such heights, to balance acidity and red berry flavors in whites, rosés and sparklers, as in DO Cariñena and DO Campo de Borja. In seaside locales like Roussillon’s Banyuls (a PDO for sweet wines) and Collioure (a PDO for dry wines), you might find a saline tang in white, rosé and even red wines.

Terroir matters, and European Garnacha/Grenache wines are proof.